Along the trail, things are different than in real life as I have come to know it. The people are, almost without exception, very kind and friendly. The trail promotes this environment. We, as hikers, work together and encourage one another to make it all the way to Maine.

I shared a hotel room with a hiker I had barely met, and we spent the time sharing the emotional challenges of the trip. How rare it seems before the trail that I was able to have a complete stranger open up to me. Perhaps there are no strangers on the trail, or perhaps I am learning how to communicate. Either way, it has made my life substantial and meaningful.

Back on the trail, I hiked the day solo, scarcely seeing anyone all day. I got a late start but hiked until dark to get some miles behind me.

At the shelter with me was a hiker who has been struggling with the trail recently. He may be getting off the trail soon. I had earlier written about the possibility of leaving the trail, with new challenges setting in. I won’t be. Blogging sometimes helps me sort out my thoughts, and an extreme thought may appear to test the water. Writing about it helped me resolve to hike until the finish.

I just finished hiking through the Shenandoah Park. The permit for hiking the park had some difficult questions, but I did my best to answer them.

It is often celebrated as one of the most beautiful sections on the trail. There were mixed feelings among the hikers, but it was definitely a beautiful place. The trail intersects with Skyline Drive about a million times, and this is where most of the good views are.

Most of the way through the park was a compromise: deal with tourists and the commercialism of the park in return for extra commodities.

The most difficult part of this stretch was the rain! It’s said that a hiker should expect rain every third day of hiking on the Appalachian Trail. The only time it has really rained on us has been the big parks: the Smokies and now the Shenandoahs. The first day, we barely escaped a downpour, arriving at a shelter just as it began. The next day, I was less fortunate. It began to rain as I hiked alone, and the rain came harder and harder. I had to come to terms with being completely wet, and soothed myself with the mantra: whatever is wet will eventually be dry. However, since rain has been such a rare thing, I was enjoying it, shouting in the puddles and streams. The frequent rain also helped remind me how lucky I have been to have stayed so dry this far.

As we continued hiking, my sleeping spots became stranger. To avoid the rain, I slept on the floor of a laundromat one night. And the following night we celebrated the clear weather:

by camping on a merry-go-round. We made a stop in Luray, which was a friendly town. The outfitters was extremely helpful. When we headed back to the trail, there was only a little bit left of the park, and we decided to get through it in one day. Of course, the skies decided to rain on me one final time as I left. I hitchhiked into Front Royal, soaking wet, and was able to secure a shower and other human comforts.

Morale is high, things are going great, and I am looking forward to the half-way point!

Today went by very quickly. After recovering from the continental breakfast, pool, hot tub, and sauna, I headed back toward the trail. I was excited to meet back up with Teabag, and that I didn’t waste any time in Waynesboro. Back to business!

Indy, Teabag, and I headed into the Shandendoahs today. I am excited to see what it has in store for us.

It was great to get an early start this morning, hiking by 6:00 a.m. It was also nice to have a mostly overcast day. After many sunny days, it felt good to get out of the sun while hiking.

I did around twenty miles to get into town, and it passed by quickly. Most of the people I saw were weekend hikers. One couple I had seen yesterday, passed again today, and once I got to the road, they gave me a ride into Waynesboro! It was very kind of them.

I met a few friends in town, while others are just hiking out today. My plan is to hike out tomorrow, but when depends on when I have everything ready. I am planning a late-night run to the grocery store to pick up more snacks and more corn!

Today was a 30 mile day, so hiking took up most of my time. Nonetheless, it was still an enjoyable day. There were a few spots where I was concerned about hydration, as it was a pretty warm afternoon.

What made the hike interesting was all of the weekend hikers: people day hiking and camping for the weekend. It was refreshing to see new faces and talk to locals. I even met some former thruhikers back to deliver trail magic!

It was very elaborate and well-prepared, and it gave me the extra burst of energy to hike the remaining miles. I’m looking forward to getting into Waynesboro tomorrow.

Pale lizards with fire-colored heads rule the trail. As I come down the trail, they sense me and dart away, to climb to the back of the nearest tree. Scarlet Tanagers flit from tree to tree above my head, sending a call to warn others of my presence. This is their land, one where they may still thrive. I try not to interfere with their doings, hoping that it might manifest into mosquitoes and mice not interfering with me.

I stop to talk with a weekend hiker, and consider how much we are alike and how much different.

I think of the sun, how it glares from above, how I change from praising it to cursing it as time passes.

I think of the trail, how it always seems to follow the direction of greatest change in elevation, always seeming to go further skyward, with seldom even a view as a reward.

I think of hikers’ talk. The talk today is our reaching 800 miles. I think how hard it is to comprehend walking 800 miles, what that means.

Yet we have done it, and we shall continue. What a beautiful, difficult, strange, surreal, and awesome adventure this is.

I left Lexington this morning in good spirits.

Because of the new shoes, I decided to hike a short day to ensure their proper fit and comfort. Though it may seem obvious, the right shoes are extremely important and can make or break a hiker. I spent over an hour at the outfitter trying them on, but it is different to e hiking in them all day. They passed the test – for today at the least. Where my old shoes were beginning to fray and provide blisters, none have come so far. I am pleased.

When I stopped hiking, I still had plenty of daylight to build a fire and make dinner. My side dish was corn! I have grown fond of packing it when I reach a grocery store, and I feasted on three ears tonight with fresh lime juice. Others drooled as they cooked bland noodles and instant mashed potatoes. This time, I also brought an orange bell pepper. Next time, I shall be even more extravagant! And healthy too!

No, no, I’m not simply off the trail to wait out a little rain. The fact that I happen to be off the trail just about every time it rains is pure coincidence. I am in Lexington, visiting my friend Jonathan! He lives so close to the trail, and in such a great town too!

As the thunder rolls outside, I am in Jonathan’s house, as he teaches a piano lesson. I’m in the room with two pianos, and we went to dinner at a piano bar, where I expect Jonathan will soon be a regular performer. Music is a huge part of his life, and it made me realize how much I miss music – not just music in general, but powerful music, emotional music, and classical music.

I have recently been listening to an audiobook while hiking (Game of Thrones, finally). While some might think this is cheating, hiking can eventually become tiresome. Talking to the trees is only fun for so long. But being here inspired me to throw some Ludwig Van on my phone, so I can listen to something pretty during my walks.

This morning, we even got a chance to see some live music, a handful of local musicians playing whatever songs came to mind.

It was delightful. Later in the day, I bought some new shoes!

I don’t like spending a lot of money, but this is a necessary purchase, as my old ones are falling apart. I am hoping to break them in at least a little before hiking tomorrow.

It has been so wonderful to spend time with Jonathan and his friends!

Today was a big day, 22 miles. I certainly got an earlier start than yesterday, but I still felt as though I was dragging my feet for most of the way. My pace is normally faster.

At one point, I came across this:

And for once, I wish there had been a sign, to explain. I accepted it and hiked on.

The day was not too eventful, as it was mostly constant hiking, but I did recently run into two unlikely people. The first, Guthook, designed the AT app I use for my phone. The second was a friend from home, David Rice! I was so surprised to see him, and couldn’t believe that he hiked that section right when I happened I be hiking it.

It’s a magical trail, I suppose. I’m looking forward to what happens next on the trail!

The first day of June! It’s hard to believe that the season is moving so quickly, yet when I think about how long I have been on the trail, it feels like a year has passed.

Today started even slower, as I was still hanging around camp after noon. The trail sent me a sign that it was too much sitting around: while lounging in my hammock, a bird from above relieved itself, and I got bird poop on my face.

There are a lot of things I love about life in the woods, but that is not one of them. However, it did motivate me to get up. And I had packed and left by 1:00. Despite my very lazy start, I managed to catch up with the others at a shelter about 16 miles north.

The hiking has been pretty, but this section of the trail frequently crosses the Blue Ridge Parkway. There are often signs at the crossings, boasting of the crossings and explaining the mountains.

It I a double-edged sword. It is cool that people can experience the trail, ad the signs can be informative, but it also takes away from the wilderness, with frequent motorcycle noises blaring nearby.

I’m secretly hoping that it will occur far less tomorrow.