Tag Archives: Appalachian Trail

Friday March 21st

The general consensus seems to be that everyone wants more food, myself included. I had bought a good amount, but I am nearly out now. I have enough to get to the next town, where most people plan to stop. If more food is of reason enough, there is snow in the future forecast. I can handle snow, but down here cold and wet almost always go together this time of year. I have avoided the worst of the weather so far, especially starting at the time that I did, considering how cold it has been this year.

The big talk is the Smokies coming up quick, now that we are in North Carolina. They are very high in elevation, so they will be coldddd. For me, the Smokies mostly mean meeting up with my family, about which I am pumped up!

Morale here is high, as we have a sweet fire going. There are quite a few people at the shelter here, with some friends from earlier on in the trail (among them Day Tripper, the Rock, Anna, Tatanka, Flinch). It has been a really relaxing night after hiking a pretty route – not a lot of views but overall good looking woods. The past few days have shown me the reasoning behind the name “green tunnel” for the trail. Everything is becoming greener and forms walls and a ceiling along the way. It is an amazing feeling to walk through that, but I can see how it would get monotonous.

I met up with Spirit Hawk, and we had an enlightening talk. It was great to meet him, and I anticipate seeing him again.

Today was a good hike. A good amount of miles in, but the terrain was nothing too rough. The campfire after the hike was definitely the highlight of the day. It is only 8:30 p.m., but I am ready for bed. My plan is to rise early tomorrow and start hiking the 16 miles to get to my destination, just before a spot to hitch into town. We will see if I can get up as early as I hope.

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Thursday. March 20th

Yesterday was a big mileage day in the mountains, especially after my zero days (zero mileage), but today I still pulled off 13 miles. My legs were tired after today, more so than they have been in a while, and I think it is because of the elevation changes, a lot of ups and downs today.

As I took a slower pace, it helped me reflect on some things. The first of which, a concept that a close friend of mine brings up sometimes, is charitable assumption, assuming that others’ intentions are not to hurt or offend. This can be challenging, as when other hikers decide to toss trash in fire pits. It is definitely one of my pet peeves, but perhaps their bags were fit to burst leaving no room for trash, or perhaps they thought that burning AA batteries was healthy and acceptable. Whatever the intent, I try not to waste energy hating and simply pack it out myself.

Another topic of my reflection was pace. I tend to hike quickly. By quickly, I mean very few people pass me, but I was focusing today on going slowly and really enjoying the hike. I hiked a lot slower than normal, and it was surprisingly difficult when someone passed me not to try to catch back up and pass them. I had to laugh at my competitive or achieving nature and hold my pace.

I had a pretty great time today, seeing. Blueberry Bear again and meeting some new people. Most of the people I met earlier are ahead of me, as they were off the trail for less time. I’d like to catch some of them, especially Truck, but whatever happens will happen.

A noteworthy event today: I passed into North Carolina! The first state of the trail complete, I feel more like an official thruhiker. Sleeping tonight in a shelter. It has become a sort of ritual for me to start a fire. There were quite a few camping at the shelter, and when someone requested I build a fire, I obliged. It worked out well for me, as they collected most of the firewood.

We enjoyed the warmth and the clear sky for a bit (the stars tonight are fantastic!), but all are nearly asleep by 10 tonight. It is feeling chilly, but hopefully it will not be too cold tomorrow.

I am looking at the next place to resupply, as I have been eating my food faster than I anticipated. It is a good thing. I need the energy, but I am going to have to get used to stopping more often or carrying a boatload of food. I am hungry still, but all of my food is hanging from a branch, so I will have to wait until morning. We will see how it goes.

Goodnight all.
-Firewalker

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Back on the trail

For those of you wondering if I was eaten by a bear, fret not. I am alive and well but had a couple of days off the trail and am still adjusting to finding good reception at the right time.

It is a wonderful thing to visit an old friend. My childhood pal from down the street now lives in Georgia, and we agreed to meet up when I approached his house. I got off at Unicoi Gap, which is a common place to head into town. A lot of hikers catch a shuttle service into town, especially because most hostels and hotels offer them, but I was headed in a different direction. It was rainy and relatively cold when I arrived, and I figured hiking would be better than standing in the rain, so I set off in that direction, hoping I would not have to hike the full fifteen or so miles. As I waded through the knee-deep mounds of wet garbage on the shoulder (ranging from beer cans to televisions to beer bottles), I was passed by gangs of jeeps and modified diesel trucks taking the mountain curves at 70 mph. Not too far down the road, I got picked up by a very generous fellow. Matt said he had a farm near the Appalachian Trail and had hiked it quite a bit. He was happy to give me a ride, but I am pretty sure. I was much happier. Other hikers have had similar luck catching rides, so I must say that I am very impressed with the southern hospitality that I have seen so far.

Speaking of which, the Grace family was super generous in allowing me to stay. It was so wonderful to see them all and catch up. They are wonderful people. I had not seen my old friend Foster in quite a few years, and so I was wondering how it would be, and how different he would be. I knew things were going to go well as soon as he drove me home in his glorious classic car. And I knew things were going to be even better when he asked me. “Do you like the band Cake?”

So we listened to Cake and hung out. Our friendship had easily sustained over the years. Great movie watching, epic games of scrabble, and of course – showers. All in all, it was amazing, and I wanted to just move in, but it was time to hit the trail again.

So I did. Foster gave me a ride back to Unicoi Gap, where I got off, and I spent most of Wednesday hiking. I managed a 17-mile day, ending at Moreland Gap. There were also a few more miles to and from shelters and water sources throughout the day but 17 miles on the actual trail – not too much to report there, as I was mostly just walking, trying to make up for lost time a bit. I am mostly on schedule, but I would rather be a bit ahead, at least starting out. The last few miles I ended up catching up with Hamp and Katherine, with whom I had camped a few nights prior. They are a lot of fun, and I enjoyed camping with them again. I started a campfire, and we stayed up late into the night (relatively late, “hiker midnight” is considered 10:00 or sometimes earlier) chatting and horsing around. It was generally awesome as they, like myself, really enjoy what they are doing but do not take it all too seriously.

Foster and the Grace family: thanks for Cake in my head instead of christmas music, thanks for everything. It was a great time.

-Firewalker

The Weekend

Friday, I awoke at the hostel around 4:30 a.m. There did not seem to be any particular reason, aside from the large group of smelly, snoring hikers who were in the same room.

I really enjoyed the quiet of the early morning. I have been craving a bit of solitude, and the time helped me think about myself for a bit and stretch for a while (not to mention eat some leftover ravioli for breakfast). The early risers started doing just that, and we talked about where we were headed for the day. Truck and I decided to hike together again and leave the endpoint to the gods to decide. After some brief business at Neel’s Gap, we were off.

I have started hiking in the mornings without trekking poles, for fun I suppose. Believe it or not, I almost did not bring them along, despite the encouragements from many. Let me just say that I am glad I did, and I appreciate those who told me to do so. If you are considering a thruhike, and considering poles, bring them.

In the midst of hiking, we encountered some trail magic, led by King Tut. He was a talkative and generous fellow, and offered food, crocheted hats, drinks, and chairs. It was a perfect break in the day to grab a snack and talk with him.

The day was easy enough, compared to yesterday’s hike, which was nice, as my first few blisters were starting to sneak in. They are nothing concerning, but it was comforting to be gentle on them. We stopped early at Hogpen Gap. There was a nice clearing for camping just before a road crossing. I ended up taking a nap in the sun after scouting out the area. Pretty rough afternoon, I know.

Before we ran out of light, we decided to scout out a shelter we had passed. It is over a mile off of the trail, so the majority of hikers pass it by, as it seems not worth the extra walking. The walk there was absolutely beautiful, and the shelter was great: secluded, clean, with great views nearby. When we arrived, we filled up on water and found that someone had left some Dr. Pepper inside! I had not tasted the soda in some time, and it was a welcome taste.

The hike back to camp, especially with no pack, was leisurely and enjoyable. Spent the night around a campfire with some great folks, talking about the great mysteries of life.

The following morning, Truck and I cruised out of camp only to find trail magic at that road crossing, not a quarter-mile from where we slept. “You boys wanna hot dog?” Somebody asked. I can’t say the last time I had one hot dog before 9 in the morning, let alone two, but let’s just say the question was a rhetorical one.

We sat around the campfire, enjoying the food and conversation of our beloved fairies before continuing on, truly an awesome way to start the day. We aimed for the shelter just shy of Unicoi Gap and hit it mid afternoon. Unicoi Gap is a popular place to jump off the trail into town for a bit, and with the predicted rain, that was just about everyone’s plan. The rain also made sheltering for the night quite appealing. We set up a campfire and had a lively bunch to enjoy the shelter for the night. Rhythm, Nick and Anna from Massachusetts, Tatanka (for whom I penned a poem at his request) and his son Jason, Flinch, New Heights, and Truck. A few section hikers joined us in the evening, and I hung around the fire until my eyelids were closing. Not too concerned about the coming rain, as my plan is to get off the trail for a bit, so we will see where the adventure goes from here.

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Friday, March 14th

A lot of people asked me why I planned to hike before I began. Nobody on the trail has asked me why yet. So naturally I discovered some of the answers while on the trail.

I had for some time been saying how I love being out in nature and that, but if that were the main reason, I could easily experience plenty of nature back in Michigan, where the elevation is about as exciting as grits. The big reason that came to me today while pushing through the mountains was this: I like discomfort. In fact, I thrive in it. When someone tells me something is impossible, I have a sudden urge to complete it. If things are down and looking grim, great! I will try to make a joke and be in higher spirits than normal. I seek discomfort, only it took me so long to figure it out, with comfort always so easily in reach. Out here in the mountains, when there is comfort, of course I will take it, in a blink, but it is far less frequent than the opposite, and I couldn’t be happier.

Discomfort and meaningful connections with people. There are two solid reasons for those who asked me that question, and there is a sea of both on the trail.

On a separate note, I got my bonafide trail name yesterday. A group of us were huddled around a campfire, newly acquainted friends, talking and laughing. There was a lull in the conversation, and Stone Bear, who was an absolute joy to meet, said to me: “Your trail name is Firewalker.” I was honored to be named by such a respectable man, and also honored that my name wasn’t “Poopwhistle” or something.

Thursday March 13th

Thursday, March 13th (I think)

Well, I ended up feeling ambitious this morning, but first I will tell you about the morning.

Picture this: the day’s first light peeks into my bivy to wake me. I slowly open my eyes and am pleased to find very little condensation. My down bag is sensitive to any moisture, and I have it drawn up tight around my neck, so I am plenty warm. Usually, I wake up a few times each night, but I know this one means it is time to start the day, and I think of the things I have to take care of before leaving camp:
-get my food bags down from where they are hanging
-eat
-pack up my bivy tent, sleeping pad, sleeping bag, tarp, and the rest of my gear
-refill water if I feel like it

That sounds like a good list, so I wiggle out of my sleeping bag and unzip the bivy and suddenly have a flashback to my Michigan days. It is certainly below freezing, which complicates things quite a bit.

The good news is that it didn’t rain. The bad news is that I did get precipitation.

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Being below freezing may not seem so bad, especially since it was well above zero. Had I taken certain precautions, it would not have been as bad, but as they say, “Learn from losing.”

I went to get my food bags and gear and brought them to my campsite and quickly put on my gloves and another pair of socks. The sun was not over the mountain horizon, so I guessed the time to be 9:00 or so. Pulling my phone from the zippered pocket in my backpack, I pressed a button to confirm the time, and the battery died instantly. I knew the battery was 45% last night, but then I remembered where my phone had slept. Apparently, all phone batteries made a pact that I was unaware of to be at 0% if they did not feel warm enough.

Ah, well. I decided to eat, since My stomach was feeling impatient with all the technology fuss. I brought out my pot for oatmeal and grabbed one of the water bottles from my backpack, yet it felt oddly stiff. The water was of course no longer water but ice. Not entirely ice, fortunately, but it was icy enough to make cooking a challenge. My water filter was also a bit frozen, and between the two, it was difficult to filter the water. I decided to boil the water, which would take longer most days, but it was likely a lot shorter today. I shivered to pass the time.

It was a cold morning, but in all honesty, Michigan weather prepared me for it quite well. Once I regained feeling in my frigid digits (I paced while eating my four instant oatmeals), I felt alright.

After packing up, I was feeling a sort of strange ambition for the day ahead. I was 14.4 in the trail that morning, and I trekked 17.3 miles to get to Neel’s Gap (at 31 miles, some math skills for you). The morning went quite smoothly. It was cold and windy for some time, but I was prepared and moving quickly enough. For some stretches, especially downhill, I brought my pace up to a jog. I met up with Chance, who was Slack-packing for the day (this means he was carrying a light pack, usually this happens when a friend takes your heavier gear and meets you again for the night). Because of this, he had a pretty grueling pace, but I was keeping up with him for a while.

Finally, my water bottles thawed out, and I was able to drink and refill on water. Soon after, I caught up to Truck. He ha stayed the previous night with many hikers at the shelter just ahead of where I had camped. After catching up, we agreed to head for Neel’s Gap. Maybe it is because I am young, but I just felt like going for it.

On the way, we had to conquer a significant obstacle: Blood Mountain. It is not terribly difficult but more so than the slopes I had climbed, and my legs were pretty tired from the morning. Tired or not, we pushed our way to the top (with motivations of a potential pizza at Neel’s Gap). The climb was worth it for the view alone. Pictures won’t really do it justice, as they cannot provide the perspective and detail of the moment, but fret not. I will still post them.

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The walk actually proved to be mostly enjoyable. As it turns out, my new friend Truck shares interests of writing and reading, so we discussed our favorite authors during the hours of walking. Not a bad afternoon.

We finally made it to Neel’s Gap by the evening, and just in time too, as there were only a few remaining spots at the hostel. I feel good about making it here, as the word is that a third of the people quit by Neel’s Gap, so it felt deserved to spend the night at the hostel. Not that sleeping outside would be all bad, but a bed and shower sounded pretty good too.

When we arrived, a church group was providing dinner. We were a bit disappointed about our pizza idea’s not coming to fruition, but that only lasted until we smelled the delicious dishes that had been prepared just for us. I felt so thankful. The food was so good, and the people were very kind and easy to talk to. It was also fun reuniting and uniting with other hikers. After dinner, we watched Shawshank Redemption and chatted.

So far, it has been so great. I have seen so much kindness and met interesting people. It has been so much more than walking through the woods on so many levels. I look forward to my next adventures.

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I even found some literature in the restroom here!

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Springer Mountain, etc, etc

Alright, so I am not dead yet. It sure felt like it though, when I woke up in heaven, or, as people around here call it, the Appalachian Trail.

I had my first revelation (of many I am sure) while hiking yesterday. It is this: Life is not about what you do as much as it is about the places and people in your life.

This sort of came about unexpectedly, as a result of the people on the trail. Most of the hiking that I have done has been quite isolated, but the AT is much different. It is a social trail, and before I even hiked the Approach Trail, I had met another prospective thru hiker, THE Michigan Wolverine, and his friend Derellll. After hiking the first mile or so with Taylor and Logan, we bid our farewells amid the roar of the massive and beautiful Amicalola Falls. It was sad to see them go, my last connection to the life I knew. I met up with the other two and hiked to Springer, joining with another thru hiker, Mr. President. Conversation so far has been pretty dreamy, mostly centering around gear, where we have hiked, or how beautiful our surroundings are. What else is there to talk about really?
After making it to Springer, we paused to snack and admire the view. They were encouraging me to spend the night atop Springer, but I felt that I should continue on. I hiked a bit further with another thru hiker, Truck. I admired Truck because he practically jumped into hiking without much planning at all. All the planning that I have done almost takes the fun out of it (not really; it is still the funniest thing I have ever done). I anticipate running into him quite a bit along the trail.

I know, I know. I keep dropping names, but I can’t help it. There are so many hikers out right now! Some are section hikers. Some are former thru hikers, like Blue Sky Georgia Barbecue, whom I met and spoke with for a while yesterday. So kind and great to talk to! It has been awesome so far.

Again, as I said, I am alive. Last night, I stayed at Stover Creek Shelter, about 2.8 miles down the official trail. It was rainy the first night, but the shelter kept me dry. Tonight, I will be camping at Devil’s Kitchen, about 14.4 miles in and just short of Gooch mountain. The next shelter is supposed to be super crowded, and since it should be dry tonight (though cold and quite windy), I will be camping out.

I was able to camp with Blood, and we chatted over a rather windy campfire . It was good to have the company.

I will write more soon. Reception has not been great, but it should get better as I progress.

My reception is not terrific, so I will post pictures later. So long for now!

Nayt

On my way

What an exhilarating couple of days to begin such a nearly incredible journey upon which I am about to embark. One of my aims of such a journey is to increase my awareness of the pertinent present moment, the now. Therefore, rather than keeping my mind in the near future on the Appalachian trail, I am striving to keep it exactly where my body resides. This has not always been an easy feat, of course, considering my future body, but I have certainly enjoyed my time spent recently.

Here, I would love to express my full gratitude toward Taylor and Logan for driving me down to Georgia. Though it may have been a destination of interest for them anyhow (they have been talking of moving here as of late…), it was extremely generous of them to make room for me and all of my irritating habits at a perfect timeframe for my hiking.

On our way south, we took two days to avoid car/cabin fever, and to enjoy some things in between Michigan and Georgia. The Days Inn we stopped at had nice people, stained linens, and a confusing breakfast buffet, but then it was southward again. We stopped in Nashville for lunch, at [bakery], and we got to talking about my hike, and I got a bit of pre-trail magic! A free pastry, as we headed down to explore Nashville, truly a unique place. Though only mid morning, we found an exciting street full of open bars with live music. Along the sidewalks were street performers, and we stopped to enjoy Mandolin Mike, who shared his music and Nashville history with us. All in all, it was an enjoyable and unexpected detour.

With the time zone changes and daylight savings, we were all a bit disoriented when it came to the time, but we did alright. After arriving in Georgia, we set our sails for Amicalola State Park, near the approach trail for the AT. The state park was a bit shocking at first, as it is somewhat of a mockery of camping. When the woman at the desk started explaining to us the expectations of “Tent City” and that the “group campfire starts at 7pm,” we responded with blank stares. Upon securing a slightly more remote campsite, further up the mountain, we visited the lodge, and I was impressed that they had some events over the weekend about the Trail, giving advice and information, which was cool, but a lot of the park was pretty overwhelming. To each his or her own, but I will stick to simplicity. The night there was well spent, and I awoke in the middle of the night to a Barred Owl! “Who Cooks For You?” I often hear this call on my camping trips. At first, it was quite soothing, but it sounded like two owls calling to each other, and then it sounded like one owl getting attacked by a wolf and a raccoon. My best guess is that they were mating, as is the case with nearly 100% of all of the animals I have seen so far.

The coolest thing that we found there after spending the night was the fitness trail. We decided to go for a hike around the park, and we joked about the fitness trail, as it was advertised as having 20 fitness stations along the way, which made me picture stationary exercise bikes in the middle of the woods. The trail was actually really awesome, and I plan to build one of my own one day.

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We stopped at the nearby town of Dahlonega. What an awesome town! It has the quirkiness of small town, the busyness of college town, and the charm of another culture rolled into one. The main roads were full of interesting shops and friendly faces. Some, unfortunately, were quite seasonal, but we still got to see quite a bit. We dined at the Bourbon Street Cafe, and our server, Amanda, was very charming and welcoming. She recommended the unusual combination of Gumbo and Grits. It was absolutely awesome, and I definitely plan to return. They were out of gator bites, so hopefully I can munch on those next time.

Fast forward to being on the road, driving on narrow and steep drives, climbing higher into the hills. We ended up at Cooper’s Creek, a stunning and gorgeous piece of Georgia scenery. Upon arrival, our dropped jaws were the only jaws for miles. Because of the clear skies, I opted for cowboy camping and am glad I did. Bright, beautiful stars winked at me all night. Normally, that amount of winking can be creepy or silly, but it made me feel calm and confident, with a side of wonder.

The following day, we went for another hike to explore the creek and surrounding woods. I was impressed. At risk of sounding like a Georgia commercial, I have been to few places with this great of beauty and this little of litter. It was a giant playground!

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We stopped again back at Dahlonega, on our way back to the start of the Trail. I will begin hiking tomorrow! Though I have already begin this journey, it is a crazy thought to think that the journey will last another six months.

I do not know what the reception will be where I am, but I will do my best to keep everyone posted.

As I submit this post, I am in a hotel room. I do not know the next night I will spend in a bed, nor the next time I will shower (ewwww), nor the next time I will gaze at my beautiful reflection. What I do know is this: the journey has begun. I am on my way to Maine. I am feeling awesome, and I know this is where I should be.